Monday, August 11, 2008

5.10 !!

I onsighted a 5.10 this weekend at the Shanty cliffs in the Adirondacks. It was a mixed route, but the crux was 100% trad. I can't remember the name of it (I rarely remember the name) but the crux was a fun THIN finger crack that went up and right. You come off a good horizontal onto some thin fingers and as you crank up and right the feet get progressively poor. The last 2 - 3 moves (height dependent) are nearly featureless.

I got the route clean, but my partners did not. Unfortunately, the #5 brassy I placed in the crux popped the second time one of my partners fell. It held her on her first fall, but she pulled it in fall #2. She thinks it failed because she pushed out away from the wall to make her fall cleaner. I thought the placement was pretty secure, so I'm bothered that it failed.

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